Poenari Citadel
Căpățânenii Ungureni, Argeș County · Muntenia
About Poenari Citadel
Poenari Citadel sits on the summit of Mount Cetățuia, above the Argeș Gorge, on the southern side of the Transfăgărășan, about 25 km from Curtea de Argeș. Of all the fortresses linked to Vlad the Impaler, this one has the strongest claim: Wallachian chronicles tell how the prince brought the townspeople of Târgoviște here as punishment and made them work on the walls until their clothes fell off their backs, and excavations confirm that the fortress was enlarged in the 15th century. Its core is older: a square stone tower built straight onto the rock by the early Basarab rulers.
In its heyday the citadel was a refuge for the princes, a place to keep the country's treasury and a prison for boyars accused of treason. It was abandoned in the second half of the 16th century, and in the 20th century earthquakes brought down part of the walls. It takes its name from the village of Poienari, a few kilometres away, even though Căpățânenii is closer; the museum that runs it calls it "Cetatea Poienari".
After three years of EU-funded consolidation and restoration, the citadel reopened in April 2025 and is managed by the Argeș County Museum.
What you can see
The climb is half the visit: 1,480 concrete steps with a handrail zigzag up through the forest from the edge of the DN7C to the ridge. The last stretch is a metal staircase fixed to the rock, which takes you to the gate.
At the top, on a narrow ridge, stands the elongated enclosure, almost 60 m long, with the square keep at one end and the semicircular towers set against the southern wall. The walls clearly show the two building phases, with rough stone below and brick above. Metal walkways lead you through the interior, and from the battlements you look down on the Argeș, the Transfăgărășan road and the wooded ridges around.
Good to know
The citadel can only be reached on foot, and the climb calls for reasonable fitness and good shoes. There are bears in the area: in spring 2025 the citadel was closed for a month after a mother bear broke through the electric safety fence, and since August 2026 it can only be visited in organised groups of 15–20 people. Check before you set off whether the restriction still applies.
- The climb up the 1,480 steps through the forest, with benches to rest on along the way.
- The metal staircase clinging to the rock that takes you into the citadel.
- The square stone keep, the oldest core of the citadel, built straight onto the rock.
- The view from the walls over the Argeș Gorge and the Transfăgărășan road.
Good to know before you go
- Getting there
By car: the citadel is on the DN7C (Transfăgărășan), about 25 km from Curtea de Argeș through Arefu and a few kilometres before the Vidraru dam. It is ~65 km from Pitești and ~175 km from Bucharest, on the A1 to Pitești and then the DN7C. From Sibiu you can come over the mountains on the Transfăgărășan, but only while the high section is open, usually from July to October. The steps start right at the roadside.
Public transport: there are no scheduled services to the citadel. The nearest you can get is Curtea de Argeș by train or coach; from there, take a taxi or an organised tour.
- Where to park
Parking is scarce: a few small car parks and lay-bys along the DN7C, near the foot of the steps and by the nearby guesthouse and restaurant. On busy summer days cars are left along the roadside, further from the steps. We could not confirm whether parking is free or paid.
- Fees & discounts
Adults 30 lei; pupils, students and seniors 20 lei (2026 prices, unchanged from 2025). Tickets are sold on site or online through the Argeș Tourist Pass platform. The panoramic binoculars at the top take tokens: 0.50 lei for 30 seconds.
- Rules
Access is on foot only; bring trainers with a good grip and water, especially in summer. The last ascent is at 17:00. Stay on the marked path, which is fenced with an electric fence against bears, and follow the staff's instructions; when bears have been reported in the area, the climb is allowed only in groups.
- Facilities
Toilets at the foot of the steps and near the citadel · benches along the path · coin-operated panoramic binoculars · restaurant, guesthouse and campsite near the foot of the steps
Reviews
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