Zănoaga Lake

About Zănoaga Lake

Zănoaga Lake, also marked on maps as Zănoaga Mare, lies in a glacial cirque in the south-western Retezat Mountains, at 1,997 m. It is almost round, about 360 by 260 m, and its maximum depth of 29 m makes it the deepest glacial lake in the country.

The lake basin was carved by the glaciers of the last ice ages, which left dozens of cirques, rock steps and lakes in the range, hence its nickname, "the land of blue eyes". The area belongs to Retezat National Park, Romania's first national park, created in 1935 and declared a biosphere reserve in 1979.

Zănoaga is more remote than Bucura: there is neither a road nor a short path to it. The two routes recommended by the park administration start in the Râul Mare valley and climb more than 1,000 m, so many people bring a tent and spend a night on the shore.

Good to know before you go

Getting there

By car: there is no road to the lake; you leave the car at one of the two trailheads, both in the Râul Mare valley. From Hațeg head towards Râu de Mori and Brazi, then along the paved DJ685 (undergoing upgrade works since 2024). The first trailhead is Gura Zlata: from here the path marked with a red triangle passes the Romanian Academy cabin, crosses the Zlătuia stream, climbs alongside the Turcului stream through the forest, then over the Aradeș-Zlata plateau to the 2,120 m saddle and down to the lake; the park administration reckons 9–10 hours there and back. The second is the park gate at the Gura Apelor dam, further up the DJ685: the path marked with a blue cross climbs steeply through spruce forest, then joins the red triangle at a spot called La Pir and continues with it to the lake, 8–9 hours there and back. From the Bucura saddle (Curmătura Bucurii), below Judele Peak, Zănoaga is about 2.5–3 hours away, so the lake can be combined with Bucura on a two-day tour.

Public transport: there are no scheduled services to Gura Zlata or the Gura Apelor dam; in practice, the trailheads can only be reached by car.

Where to park

You leave the car at Gura Zlata, by the DJ685, or at the Gura Apelor dam, and continue on foot. From there it is several hours' climb to the lake, which no vehicle can reach.

Fees & discounts

Entry to Retezat National Park carries a visitor fee of 10 lei per person (VAT included), valid for 7 days with any number of entries. You can buy it online (bilete.retezat.ro, Easy2Visit), by text message to 7494 (PNR1 for one ticket, €2 + VAT), at the park's access points, at the Nucșoara visitor centre or from park staff; keep the proof for inspections and save it offline, as there is no signal in many places. Under-18s, local residents and people with disabilities (as provided by law) are exempt. Camping in the permitted areas is free.

Rules

Tents may only be pitched in designated areas — at Zănoaga, around the refuge — without digging trenches or laying cut branches underneath. Open fires are forbidden; cook only on a camping stove. Swimming in the lakes and using detergents in the water are not allowed, and you must stay on waymarked trails. Dogs must be kept on a lead at all times. Drones may not fly without the park administration's approval, and noise (music, shouting) is forbidden. There are no bins: take everything you bring back with you. You need hiking boots, rain and wind gear, water and food for the whole day, and winter equipment in winter; the refuge is not a chalet and can only be used in exceptional situations, with the rescuers' consent. In an emergency call 112 or 0SALVAMONT (0725 826 668).

Facilities

Zănoaga refuge on the shore, staffed by Salvamont in summer · free camping area with no facilities · springs at the lake and on the Aradeș plateau · no chalet, shop or toilets at the lake · weak or no mobile signal · not accessible for people with disabilities