Retezat National Park
About Retezat National Park
Retezat National Park covers most of the Retezat Mountains, in the south-west of Hunedoara County, and today extends over more than 38,000 hectares. It was created in 1935 on the initiative of the botanist Alexandru Borza and the biologist Emil Racoviță, on the site of a former royal hunting reserve for chamois, and in 1979 UNESCO recognised it as a biosphere reserve under its "Man and the Biosphere" programme.
The range is nicknamed "the land of blue eyes": it has more than 80 glacial lakes, 54 of them permanent, about 38% of the glacial lakes in the country. It also has 50 peaks above 2,000 m, the highest being Peleaga (2,509 m) and Păpușa (2,508 m). Retezat Peak (2,482 m), whose "cut-off" summit gave the mountain its name, can be seen from all over the Hațeg Country.
At the heart of the park lies the Gemenele scientific reserve, created in 1955, one of the most strictly protected areas in the country and closed to visitors. Elsewhere, the park is explored on waymarked trails, with chalets on its edges and camping areas set by the park administration.
What you can see
On the north side, from Cârnic, the forest road and the path climb through spruce forest to the Pietrele and Gențiana chalets, then through dwarf pine to Pietrele Lake and the Bucura saddle (Curmătura Bucurii), which looks down into the cirque of Bucura Lake. Also from Pietrele, a path climbs past Stânișoara Lake to Retezat Peak. From the south-west, from the Gura Apelor dam and Gura Zlata, you can reach Zănoaga Lake, the deepest glacial lake in Romania, or Gura Bucurii, the starting point for Peleaga.
Along the way you pass alpine meadows with rare flowers, granite scree and lakes arranged in steps, and chamois and marmots are often seen on the slopes.
Good to know
The Retezat is a mountain for proper hiking: trails to the ridges take 8–11 hours there and back, the weather changes quickly, and in winter the ridges and some sections are out of reach without special equipment.
Information verified on 20 October 2026.
- The climb from Cârnic past the Gențiana chalet and Pietrele Lake up to the Bucura saddle, with Bucura Lake opening up below.
- Retezat Peak (2,482 m), climbed from Pietrele past Stânișoara Lake, with views over the cirques of the Gemenele reserve.
- Peleaga Peak (2,509 m), the highest in the park, on the circuit from Gura Bucurii through the Căldarea Berbecilor cirque.
- The lakes arranged in steps in the Bucura cirque: Tăul Porții, Tăul Agățat, Bucura, Viorica, Florica, Ana and Lia.
- Chamois and marmots in the alpine zone, easiest to spot in the morning with binoculars.
Good to know before you go
- Getting there
By car: the most used entrance is Cârnic, on the north side: from Hațeg take the DN66 towards Petroșani as far as Ohaba de sub Piatră, then the DJ667A through Sălașu de Sus and Nucșoara; it is about 25 km from Hațeg, the last ~5 km unpaved, from the viaduct at Nucșoara. Hațeg is ~45 km from both Deva and Petroșani. On the west side you enter via Râu de Mori: on the DJ686 to the Râușor resort, or on the DJ685 through Brazi to Gura Zlata and the Gura Apelor dam (the county road is undergoing upgrade works). From the dam, past the park barrier, ~20 km of unpaved forest road, recommended only for high-clearance vehicles, lead to Gura Bucurii. Towards the south-east, the north–south main trail crosses the park from Ohaba de sub Piatră to Câmpu lui Neag in 18–19 hours of walking; other entrances are Câmpușel and Buta, off the DN66A, and Stâna de Râu, from Hobița.
Public transport: regional trains on the Simeria – Petroșani line stop at Ohaba de sub Piatră, but there are no scheduled services on to Cârnic, nor to Râușor, Gura Zlata or Gura Bucurii. That leaves a taxi or a car.
- Where to park
At Cârnic you park at the end of the road open to the public; beyond it, towards Pietrele, cars are not allowed. On summer weekends the spaces fill up early. On the west side there are car parks at Gura Zlata, at the Gura Apelor dam and a basic one with no facilities at the end of the forest road, at Gura Bucurii. It is not confirmed whether parking at Cârnic is charged.
- Fees & discounts
Entry to the park carries a visitor fee of 10 lei per person (VAT included), valid for 7 days with any number of entries. You can buy it online (bilete.retezat.ro, Easy2Visit), by text message to 7494 (PNR1 for one ticket, €2 + VAT), at the main access points, at the Nucșoara visitor centre or from park staff; keep the proof for inspections and save it offline, as there is no signal in many places. Under-18s, residents of the localities that own land in the park and people with disabilities (as provided by law) are exempt. Camping in the permitted areas is free.
- Rules
You must stay on waymarked trails; the Gemenele scientific reserve is closed to visitors. Tents may only be pitched in the designated camping areas (Cârnic, Pietrele, Poiana Pelegii, Bucura, Zănoaga, Gura Zlata, Râușor and others), without digging trenches or laying branches underneath. Open fires are forbidden; at campsites cook only on a camping stove. Swimming and detergents in the lakes and streams are not allowed, nor are picking plants or feeding animals. Dogs must be kept on a lead at all times, and you must carry their health papers. Noise (music, shouting), vehicles on the paths, bicycles included, and flying aircraft or drones without the administration's approval are forbidden. There are no bins: take everything you bring back with you. You need hiking boots, rain and wind gear, water and food; the Salvamont refuges are only for exceptional situations. In an emergency call 112 or 0SALVAMONT (0725 826 668).
- Facilities
Park visitor centre in Nucșoara · Pietrele and Gențiana chalets on the north side, Râușor resort on the west side · guesthouses and camping area at Cârnic · Salvamont refuges staffed in summer · free camping areas with no facilities · no bins · weak or no mobile signal on the trails · mountain trails not accessible for people with disabilities
Frequently asked questions about Retezat National Park
- How much is a ticket to Retezat National Park?
- A ticket to Retezat National Park costs 10 lei (park fee, valid for 7 days). Entry to the park carries a visitor fee of 10 lei per person (VAT included), valid for 7 days with any number of entries. You can buy it online (bilete.retezat.ro, Easy2Visit), by text message to 7494 (PNR1 for one ticket, €2 + VAT), at the main access points, at the Nucșoara visitor centre or from park staff; keep the proof for inspections and save it offline, as there is no signal in many places. Under-18s, residents of the localities that own land in the park and people with disabilities (as provided by law) are exempt. Camping in the permitted areas is free.
- What are the opening hours of Retezat National Park?
- Opening hours at Retezat National Park: daily open 24 hours. The park is in the open air, with no opening hours. The Gura Apelor – Gura Bucurii forest road is usable, depending on the weather, roughly from mid-May to mid-November; Cârnic remains accessible all year. In winter the ridges and final climbs (Curmătura Bucurii, the Retezat saddle) have cornices and cannot be reached without special equipment, sometimes until June.
- How long does a visit to Retezat National Park take?
- A visit to Retezat National Park takes about 8½ – 9 hours (a day on the trail, ideally 2–3 days).
- Can you visit Retezat National Park with kids?
- Yes, Retezat National Park is suitable for children (short trails, e.g. to Lolaia).
- How do I get to Retezat National Park?
- Retezat National Park is located at Cârnic, northern entrance to the park, at the end of the DJ667A road from Ohaba de sub Piatră and Nucșoara, Nucșoara, Hunedoara County. By car: the most used entrance is Cârnic, on the north side: from Hațeg take the DN66 towards Petroșani as far as Ohaba de sub Piatră, then the DJ667A through Sălașu de Sus and Nucșoara; it is about 25 km from Hațeg, the last ~5 km unpaved, from the viaduct at Nucșoara. Hațeg is ~45 km from both Deva and Petroșani. On the west side you enter via Râu de Mori: on the DJ686 to the Râușor resort, or on the DJ685 through Brazi to Gura Zlata and the Gura Apelor dam (the county road is undergoing upgrade works). From the dam, past the park barrier, ~20 km of unpaved forest road, recommended only for high-clearance vehicles, lead to Gura Bucurii. Towards the south-east, the north–south main trail crosses the park from Ohaba de sub Piatră to Câmpu lui Neag in 18–19 hours of walking; other entrances are Câmpușel and Buta, off the DN66A, and Stâna de Râu, from Hobița. Public transport: regional trains on the Simeria – Petroșani line stop at Ohaba de sub Piatră, but there are no scheduled services on to Cârnic, nor to Râușor, Gura Zlata or Gura Bucurii. That leaves a taxi or a car.
- When is the best time to visit Retezat National Park?
- The best season for Retezat National Park: June – October (ridges free of snow from July).
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